Monday, August 30, 2010


So, here're a few updates about one thing and/or another.

Collarbone: (I update this from time to time because when I first broke mine, I was eager for info on what to expect from my recovery; I'm hoping that this is of interest/help to someone.)

I'm four months out from the break and surgery and I'd estimate that I'm probably 95 percent back. Been road riding and running for two-and-a-half months now. Along with a century I've ridden numerous epic climbs including Hurricane Ridge; Sunrise, Paradise and Cayuse-Chinook (Mount Rainier); Washington Pass (Highway 20); Artist Point (Mount Baker) and McNeil Canyon (near Chelan). My running is pretty low-key these days but only because I'm riding so much; it's not at all a collarbone-related issue.

Mountain biking-wise I've been riding for about a month and this is where I'm still inching my way back. The distance and climbing are no problem but yesterday, when the Titanium Cowboy (Scott Young) and I did the epic Samish Loop, I got off and walked part of the steep rocky descent on So Easy which I can usually ride. And there's one challenging bridge in Arroyo Park that's still in my head a bit.

I don't feel any pain in my collarbone, it's more a confidence thing. In fact the only pain I feel is when someone comes up and squeezes my shoulder as part of a friendly greeting which, oddly enough, happened twice on Saturday. (Ouch! and various curse words.)  

The Classic Road Rides of Washington book: I've been road riding lots this summer, gathering routes for my book--the aforementioned mountain spots along with various flat and rolling routes in places throughout Whatcom, Skagit, Snohomish, King counties and the San Juan Islands, with rides in ever-expanding geographic circles throughout the state once my son is back in school. My Seattle Times story of last week generated a few e-mails and suggestions for routes include a couple epics up near Chelan and one killer climb (Lion's Rock) near Ellensburg. The elevation profile looks McNeil Canyon-esque. Weather permitting, I'm hoping to head down and try it this week. 

Other rides and routes on the agenda before the rain and mountain snow starts include Mount St. Helens, Paradise from the east (Stevens Canyon approach), and hopefully another foray to the Methow Valley. I'm always looking for suggestions so please feel free to send them my way.
Also possibly on my agenda is the Capitol Forest 50-Miler , a mountain bike race down near Olympia. I've ridden here a couple times (once with Gary Klein: see here) and always wanted to go back. Looks like a fun killer race. Or, as I wrote in my Times story about mountain road routes, a painfully evil, rollicking good time.

Wednesday, August 25, 2010


Click here for my story in today's Seattle Times about Washington's five best upward-tilted road rides.
Here're some other pics of Bellinghamsters riding to Artist Point a couple weeks ago.

Along with the five mentioned in the story, here are four honorable Mention climbs: Cayuse/Chinook Pass, McNeil Canyon, Mount Constitution, Mount Erie. 

Had coffee and a delightful chat session this morning with B'ham's Courtney Nash. She's heading up this weekend's Trek Dirt Series women's bike camp at Whatcom Falls Park, Lake Padden, 'n' the Galby. (Galbraith Mtn.) Two days of skill-building, riding, and fun on the best trails around, IMHO. Still some spots available, says Courtney, who stresses that the camp is for women riders of all levels.

"If you know how to shift gears on your bike, you'll be fine," Courtney says.

Groups will be split up according to skill level with more advanced riders tackling Galby's more technical trails.

Kulshan Cycles is helping host the event. For more information see Dirt Series or e-mail

Friday, August 20, 2010


Back in B'ham after three days of ridin' slash book research including mucho hill climbing. Skykomish to Leavenworth via Stevens Pass on Wed., 40 miles near Chelan including McNeil Canyon (steepest hill I've ever climbed) on Thurs., and a fun L'worth-Plain-L'worth 40-miler this morning.
McNeil Canyon, above two pics, is psycho steep! Climbs 2,200 feet in 5 miles. My Garmin Edge was reading 15 percent and above near the top. No less an authority than Seattle's Tom Meloy, who rides 10,000 miles and climbs 500,000 feet a year, says it's harder than the Galibier, Alpe D'Huez and Co de la Madeleine, all of which he's climbed. Personally, I found the descent absolutely hair-raising and admit that I walked a bit of it. (The descent, that is, not the ascent; the broken collarbone still has me a tad sheepish on descents.)  
Above, the Columbia River. McNeil Canyon is the large mass to the left. It put the hurt on me.  

Monday, August 09, 2010


Here's a story I wrote last year for The Seattle Times that I thought might be worth re-running. It's about high alpine hiking trails that you can only get to later in the season (like around now and/or in the next month or so) when most of the snow at these upper reaches has melted. (The above shot is of some cool campsites at the foot of Sahale Glacier above Cascade Pass.)

I will put a disclaimer in here that I truthfully don't know what the current snow level is in the North and Central Cascades. However, each trail listing includes a contact number and/or website where you can find that information.

So please, enjoy!

After a snow-melting summer, try one of these 5 high-Cascade hikes

By Mike McQuaide

On a forested rocky hillside below Boston Basin, the angry flames of an orange hotspot flare and fall. Its billowy smoke plume drifts skyward where it lingers against the icy-white backdrop of glacier-draped Eldorado Peak. Forest fire. Granted, a tiny forest fire—about two acres, according to North Cascades National Park officials—but to Bellingham’s Jim Robbins and I, descending Sahale Arm one ridge over, a tad freaky nonetheless. A forest fire here, in the heart of the rugged North Cascades—one of the most glaciated and waterfall-laden spots in the Lower 48—confirms something we’ve known for months now: it’s been a hot, dry summer.

There’s proof everywhere. Scorched lawns, shriveled gardens, the unusual abundance of SUVs and mini-vans with “WASH ME” traced in filth on their rear windows. But hey, look on the bright side. All this sun and record-setting heat means that upper elevation trails were not only snow-free earlier than usual but now are snow-free higher than normal. A few weeks ago, Robbins and I hiked all the way to 7,500 feet, to the edge of Sahale Glacier, without having to cross so much as a smidgen of snow. So if it’s high hikes you’re looking for—with their jaw-dropping vistas where row upon row of spires, crags, pinnacles and peaks extend as far as the eye can see, like wave upon wave in a choppy sea—now’s the time to head up.

As for where to go, here are five trails that top out at 7,000 feet or above and that are guaranteed to sate your mountain yearnings.

Cascade Pass-Sahale Arm
With its stunning views of Johannesburg Mountain, Cascade Peak and more—easily had without even taking a step from the trailhead parking lot—the Cascade Pass Trail is justifiably one of the most popular trails in Western Washington. And with views far down into the Stehekin Valley and of surrounding mountains that seem to multiply with every step, Cascade Pass itself isn’t any slouch either. But the pass is only 5,400 feet and in terms of true mountain manna from heaven, the views there are only the tip of the iceberg, so to speak. For the whole iceberg, and views of even more North Cascade glaciers, head up, up, and up to Sahale Arm, about 2,200 feet higher.

Well-marked and easy to find, the trail to Sahale Arm climbs seemingly straight up from Cascade Pass for a little less than a mile until it attains the Sahale Arm ridgeline. This perfect lunch spot rewards with epic views of peaks near and far, the nearest one being the arm’s namesake, Sahale Mountain. At 8,680 feet, it’s a rocky pyramid draped in glaciers that requires glacier travel experience as well as ropes and climbing gear. But there’s still plenty on Sahale for hikers to enjoy. All along the ridgeline stunning views west include Eldorado Peak, and the cheerily named Mount Torment and Forbidden Peak. To the east and down, way down, are the jade-colored waters of dubiously named Doubtful Lake.

“This is an astoundingly beautiful trail,” Robbins and I said in one form or another to each about a hundred times during our recent ridgeline wander.
Eventually, the trail runs out of meadow and from 7,000 feet and up, cairns and a sometimes hard-to-follow boot trail lead the way up a scree slope. At 7,600 feet (according to my altimeter, though the Green Trails Map says 7,200 feet) we reached Sahale Glacier Camp, which holds a high place in that category of most glorious spots in the Cascades in which to pitch a tent.


Distance: 12 miles.

Elevation Gain: 4,200 feet.

Highpoint: 7,600 feet.

Getting there: From Marblemount in Skagit County, follow Cascade River Road for 23 miles to the road-end parking lot. Elevation: 3,600 feet. Northwest Forest Pass required. For the latest conditions, call North Cascades National Park Wilderness Information Center 360-854-7245, or go to

The Enchantments
Just outside Leavenworth, this high plateau of crystalline lakes, cloud-piercing peaks, and gushing waterfalls is oft-regarded as the state’s crème de la crème of alpine hikes. Thing is, there’s no easy way to get up there. The Colchuck Lake-Aasgard Pass approach is the shorter of the two routes—about six miles one-way—but requires ascending (and descending) ultra-steep Aasgard Pass, which climbs 2,000 feet (up to an elevation of 7,800 feet) in about a mile.

The Snow Lakes approach climbs more gently but is longer (10 miles one-way to Perfection Lake at 7,100 feet) and, since it starts at a lower elevation, requires more elevation gain—5,800 feet versus 4,500 feet for the Colchuck-Aasgard route. But if it’s high you’re looking for, and you’ve got quads of steel, you can’t go wrong with the Enchantments.
Certainly, both of these are burly day hikes which can be turned into overnight trips. As long as you have an Enchantment Area Wilderness Permit, most of which as long gone by now. However, every day except Sunday, a small number of permits are issued to interested parties at the Leavenworth Ranger Station. For more information, go to or call 509-548-2550.


Distance: 12.2 miles for Colchuck Lake approach; 20 miles for Snow Lakes approach.

Elevation Gain: 4,500 feet for Colchuck Lake; 5,800 feet for Snow Lakes.

Highpoint: 7,800 feet for Aasgard Pass; 7,100 feet for Perfection Lake.

Getting there: For the Snow Lakes Trail, take the Stevens Pass highway (Highway 2) to Leavenworth. Just west of town, go right on Icicle Road and continue 4.3 miles to the Snow Lakes Trailhead on your left. Elevation: 1,300 feet.

For the Stuart Lake Trailhead (which offers access to Colchuck Lake trail and Aasgard Pass), continue on Icicle Road 4.2 more miles. Turn left on Forest Service Road 7601. Drive 3.7 miles to the road-end trailhead parking lot. Elevation 3,400 feet.

Northwest Forest Pass required for parking at both trailheads. For the latest conditions, call the Leavenworth Ranger District at 509-548-2550.

Goat Peak Lookout
Not all hikes to that 7,000-foot mark require Herculean efforts. Despite towering over the Mazama end of the Methow Valley, Goat Peak Lookout is attainable after only about two-and-a-half miles (one-way) of hiking and 1,600 feet of climbing. As with just about all fire lookout sites, the views are stunning, far-reaching and panoramic (in that order) with views down into seemingly every nook and cranny of the Methow Valley. One of only two staffed fire lookouts in the Methow Valley, Goat Peak is staffed by Lightning Bill Austin, the poet laureate of fire lookouts who’s been featured on TV shows such as “Evening” magazine and who even has his own website:


Distance: 5 miles.

Elevation Gain:1,600 feet.

Highpoint: 7,000 feet.

Getting there: Head east on Highway 20 (North Cascades Highway) to just past milepost 179 and turn left at the sign for Mazama. Just ahead, after crossing the Methow River, turn right onto Lost River Road and in about 2 miles, left onto Forest Road 52. Follow it for 2.7 miles, then turn left on FR 5225 and continue for about 3.5 miles. Turn right on FR 200 and reach the trailhead parking lot in 3 miles. Elevation: 5,600 feet. Northwest Forest Pass required. For the latest conditions, call 509-996-4000 or go to

Panorama Point/Skyline Loop
No mention of high hikes in Western Washington State would be complete without including one on the flanks of Mount Rainier. This stunner heads up from Paradise on the mountain’s south side to 7,100 feet just below the Muir Snowfield. If you’re in the mood for exploring, there are lots of options to turn this excursion into a longer loop. Head over to the foot of Paradise Glacier or up to McClure Rock. Views south to the Tatoosh Range, Mount Adams and more are pure mountain magic.


Distance: 6 miles.

Elevation Gain: 1,700 feet.

Highpoint: 7,100 feet.

Getting there: Head to Paradise area in Mount Rainier National Park. Elevation: 5,400 feet. From the parking lot, find the Skyline Trail and begin heading up following the appropriate signs. Visiting Mount Rainier National Park requires a $15 entry fee. For the latest conditions, call 360-569-4453 or go to

Windy Pass (Wenatchee National Forest)
Admittedly, this trail is a bit of a grunt, but if it’s privacy you’re looking for—as well as some serious elevation—go ahead and get Windy. With the nearby Enchantments and Colchuck and Stuart Lakes luring the lion’s share of alpine lovers, you could have 7,200-foot Windy Pass to yourself. And the views here—far down into the Columbia River basin up to nearby Cashmere Mountain—are almost as good. An added plus: no Aasgard Pass to tilt at; just a steep, multi-switchbacked climb above Little Eightmile Lake and a long meandering meadow- and bowl-contouring climb to the pass.


Distance: 15.6 miles.

Elevation Gain: 4,200 feet.

Highpoint: 7,200 feet.

Getting there: Take the Stevens Pass highway (Highway 2) to Leavenworth. Just west of town, go right on Icicle Road and continue for 8.5 miles to Forest Road 7601. Turn left and follow for 3 miles to the Eightmile Lake Trailhead. Elevation 3,300 feet. Northwest Forest Pass required. For the latest conditions, call the Leavenworth Ranger District at 509-548-2550.

Mike McQuaide is a Bellingham freelance writer and author of "Day Hike! Central Cascades" and "Day Hike! North Cascades" (Sasquatch Books).

For more:

Find descriptions for these and other high-altitude hikes in the following books:

• “Day Hiking Central Cascades” and “Day Hiking North Cascades” (Mountaineers Books), by Craig Romano.

• “Day Hike! Central Cascades” and “Day Hike! North Cascades” (Sasquatch Books), by Mike McQuaide.

• “Day Hike!” Mount Rainier” (Sasquatch Books), by Ron C. Judd.

Along with being extremely strenuous, these hikes are potentially dangerous. At 7,000 feet and above, the weather can quickly change for the worse. Wear sturdy boots, carry the 10 essentials and watch the weather. Do not hike beyond your abilities.

Thursday, August 05, 2010


Please enjoy a couple minutes of the half-hour descent from Hurricane Ridge.


Rode Hurricane Ridge yesterday in Olympic National Park. By far, the longest, most relentless climb I've done. Nineteen miles long with 5,100 feet of climbing. By comparison, from the D.O.T. shed on the Mount Baker Highway to Artist Point, it's 11 miles and about 3,000 feet of climbing. I parked by Civic Field in Port Angeles, then headed up Race St. for about a mile before I hit the national park. There's no warm-up, no flat spot, just start climbing right out of the gate. And in fact the first 4-1/2 miles are probably the steepest of the whole ride. My Garmin Edge 500 consistently read 8, 9 percent so that whenever it eased off a bit to 4 or 5 percent, it felt like I was going downhill.
Absolutely beautiful day. No real wind, not too hot, traffic not too bad. Saw only two other cyclists including one dude on a Cervelo time trial bike. (Didn't look to be serving him too well.)

Big shout-out and thanks to my son Baker and sister Kath (and their dog, Roy) who were my support vehicle and photographers/videographers. (Bake took the top pic, BTW.)
Kinda funny: about halfway up my phone rings and I stop to answer it just in case it's my support vehicle. Turns out, it's the producers of this TV show, "It Only Hurts When I Laugh." They saw this video Bake made of he and his friends doing some stunts in which one kids kinda biffs it, and they want to know if they can use it for their show. I told them I'd call them back when I wasn't climbing a big mountain on my bike. (I'll keep you posted if and when it airs.)
Back to the riding: the descent was crazy fun (I hit 42.5 according to my Garmin; that's fast for me) and long. Really long.

I ended the day by riding about a bit of the Olympic Discovery Trail which traces the shoreline along the Strait of Juan de Fuca and will eventually extend from Port Townsend to La Push. Right now, about 50 miles in the middle are complete--the Sequim-ish to Port Angeles-ish area. Most of what I rode was paved though there was a fairly long gravel-Roubaix stretch. 

Fun riding and great views. I'll be back!

(By the way, favorite road name we saw: Kitchen Dick Road.)

Sunday, August 01, 2010


Scott "Titanium Cowboy" and I rode the 107-mile Tour de Whatcom yesterday, finishing just before the skies opened and sprinkled a bit for the first time since ... when, 4th of July? Great ride, great fun, and the collarbone felt really good.
Photos here are from the Birch Bay rest stop at mile 85 which, incidently, was the first we'd seen of other riders for about 30 miles. We'd been in no man's land since Lynden where we'd split from the group we'd been riding with b/c we were both dying for a cup of coffee. So we pulled into Woods, downed our cups of joe, and thereafter found ourselves on our own fighting a headwind seeminly all the way. No matter, Scott is super strong and I could always fake that my collarbone was hurting if I didn't feel like taking my turn pulling into the wind.
It's a good route--you hit just about every town in Whatcom County--with lots of flat fast sections, particularly early. On highway 9 north--Acme to Deming to Everson--we flew, clicking of the miles at 22-, 24-mph for a couple hours.
Birch Bay is also where the 50-mile riders turnaround, and though we weren't able to find a group to ride home with to Bellingham, it was fun to see all the other riders--lots of big, heavy mountain bikes and otherwise old school rigs. People just out having fun and really, that's what it's all about.
In all, I tallied 107 miles with 2,900 feet of elevation gain.

Next up, Hurricane Ridge on Tuesday.